STiR+ and LI Quad - plus other goodies on Lexus GS350

rjk

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I'm just neck deep in my LI + STiR+ install, so I figured I'd drop in and post some pics. Unfortunately, all I had was my phone, so I wasn't taking very many pictures along the way - but I've attached what I have. No pics of the rear, since I did it wrong and have to re-do it. The cool thing about installing it myself is that I can easily rip it all out when it comes time to upgrade the vehicle.

A body shop friend of mine did the grille mods. And yes, I know the bubbles should be on the outside and not the inside as they are in the picture :eek: but I'm working on correcting that ASAP. The STiR's included alert LED is way too dim - I will either replace it, or eliminate it. I still need to find the best location for the remote buttons.

In addition to the STiR and the LIs, I have the following bits of electronics that I'm attempting to install myself:

Compustar FT-6200/Firstech CM-6200 remote starter brain
Compustar RF-P2W901-SS Remote control (1 mile range, 2 way)
Fortin EVO-ALL bypass module (wired with secured key takeover)
Compustar DroneMobile DR-2000 GPS tracking and remote start from smartphone
Brickhouse Security HCT Pro Plus dedicated GPS tracking system (wouldn't have got it if I knew the Drone could do this... oh well)
[In addition, I purchased the Brickhouse GPS tracker before I bought my car, since the previous car was stolen. When I got my replacement vehicle, it turns out that it has a factory-installed GPS tracking system {Lexus Safety Connect} so I now have THREE separate ways to track my car if it gets stolen again]

Additional components that I am considering:
Wilson cell booster, but I don't want wires running across the roof into the door jamb, and I also do not want to drill new holes into the roof.
Autonet Mobile in-car WiFi system (but if I get the Wilson, I might as well use my phone as a hotspot...)
Laser Veil (does it work, and what about this thread: https://www.rdforum.org/showthread.php?t=16261 ?)
Zaon PCAS MRX (Ohio uses aircraft/vascar all the time)
Waze (current Q10 blackberry is incompatible though)

Anything else?
 

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rjk

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Nice job. Constructive criticism...how do you know that your heads will be level to the road? Added to Index.
Thanks. The cool little bubble level that Cliff includes with the kit does a great job - the heads stick out just enough that I can get the level on them for horizontal alignment. The levels also have square ends, so I can just put the end of it up to the face of the emitter and check for vertical leveling.

I just found out that my STiR placement is bad because it sits behind a honeycomb grille. :( I don't want too much attenuation, but cutting through the lower grille could result in road debris eating my antenna. The bumper itself has hard foam behind it, so I don't think I can put the antenna there. In addition, the bumper is not flat, but curved, so that could cause interference from what I understand. Any of you have suggestions for this?
 

tmcmenam

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You need to flip the bubbles on your LIs. Bubbles should be on the outside.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk 2
 

rjk

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You need to flip the bubbles on your LIs. Bubbles should be on the outside.
Yep, I noted that in the first post - will update when I get it done. Looks like I will have to remove the bumper again in order to fix the radar antenna issue anyways. :(
 

alloy00

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Quite the installation - very impressive endeavor. I like the cameo's of the beer - very helpful in getting things done right! Good luck finishing off the install!
 
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lay3r3

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Nice work! comments/questions:

1) It looks like the heads are JBWelded in place! What is that stuff and are you going to be able to adjust them after the fact?
2) I'll have similar challenges on my radar receiver... would like to have it behind the bumper but worried the bumper is curved enough to be problematic. Not sure what the 'breaking' point is on that. You're right though... honeycomb or slats or grills are supposed to be very bad for radar detection.
3) I've been debating the mirror install as well. It's a damn pricey mirror to f-up though so I'm nervous. Guessing that you pulled off the circuit board and then used an exacto or something to cut out the rectangle in the mirror backing? How's it look powered off. I've been told a whole knew mirror that's got 2-way properties is the way to go but haven't dug in to it very deep yet.


Would love to see a finished front shot.
 

rjk

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Nice work! comments/questions:

1) It looks like the heads are JBWelded in place! What is that stuff and are you going to be able to adjust them after the fact?
2) I'll have similar challenges on my radar receiver... would like to have it behind the bumper but worried the bumper is curved enough to be problematic. Not sure what the 'breaking' point is on that. You're right though... honeycomb or slats or grills are supposed to be very bad for radar detection.
3) I've been debating the mirror install as well. It's a damn pricey mirror to f-up though so I'm nervous. Guessing that you pulled off the circuit board and then used an exacto or something to cut out the rectangle in the mirror backing? How's it look powered off. I've been told a whole knew mirror that's got 2-way properties is the way to go but haven't dug in to it very deep yet.


Would love to see a finished front shot.
It's kind of like JBWeld, but meant for plastic and sets up faster. I think I might be able to cut it with a razor - feels ever so slightly rubbery.

The mirror is indeed expensive, and I was very nervous cutting it up - but it worked out quite well for me. Tip: There are 2 wires that go to metal strips on the top and bottom of the actual glass - be sure to carefully unplug them from the PCB before doing anything, and be very careful not to break them off. They are what trigger the dimming function on the mirror.

When powered off, the display is very hard to see - but at the right angle, you will be able to see the cutaway, like you can with the OEM compass. If you have the tools to make curved corners on the cuts, do it - it will look better. I just used a razor and Goo-Gone to clean off the sticky stuff that was holding it on. Additionally, light leakage from the back will cause problems - so be sure to seal up any holes you make for the wire to pass through. The wire is too short already, so you will probably have best results chopping the connector off and re-crimping a new one once you have poked the wire through the hole that you will drill in the back of the mirror casing. Going through the center tube is impossible, since the factory wires take up all the space.
 

lay3r3

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Thinking it's one of those things that once you dig in, it's not so bad. Just be slow and careful. Thanks for the reply!
 

rjk

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I'm taking it a bit too slow since I don't have an idea space to work in other than my driveway. Anyways, I found ideal places for the STiR+ and LI speakers - right behind the radio head is a cavity that can hold both of them, and they shouldn't be too quiet since they point up at the vent ductwork.
 

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rjk

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I found a good spot for the kill switch and the USB update port! Small problem... when I initially tested the STiR+ with a Bushnell, it worked fine, but now it does nothing... :(
If I unplug it, the brain says "CHECK RECEIVER WIRING", and when I plug it back in, the alert goes away - but it doesn't pick anything up at all. I wonder if the interconnection is damaged somewhere along the way, or if there's interference making it stop working? Need to do a bunch more troubleshooting. :eek:
 

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rjk

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After using Detector Tools to reset the detector to factory settings, and then updating the database, all is working well again. I also moved the GPS antenna out from behind the third brake light, and put it underneath the package tray instead.

Today, I removed the bumper again and used a razor to get the LI heads off. I trimmed the left side so that it was properly level, and then used some more glue to fasten new brackets to the heads. Unfortunately, I didn't have access to the same industrial strength glue that I used previously, and instead used some Loctite stuff that claims to set in 1 minute. However, after gluing it up and clamping it for several hours, it still moves around and doesn't stick in place :(. I'm going to leave it overnight and then attach the heads to the grille tomorrow.

While the bumper was off, I also took the opportunity to remove the STiR+ antenna from behind the license plate and cut a hole in the lower grille for it to peek through. That went really well and it is hardly visible at all. I'm very pleased with how that worked out. It fits very tightly into the grille, but I also fastened it with the bracket to the piece of plastic behind the bumper for added protection.
 

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rjk

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I went to the auto parts store instead of Lowes and found a better 2-part epoxy that actually works! I finished re-mounting the LI heads with the bubbles out, after doing a bit of filing to try and make the left head level. However, it's still off by a few degrees vertically :(.
 

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rjk

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Yeah I know I'm slow... There's only so many weekends in a year! Today, I got several things done.

- Mounted and leveled rear heads
- Removed rear seats to run the rear cables through the stock wiring loom location
- - - When running wires from the trunk into the cabin, you have 2 options: Remove the rear seats and follow the stock harness, or pop up the package tray and drill a hole into the trunk.
- - - The seats must be removed because the side trim piece is actually an airbag, and it is bolted in. It does not pop out like the rest of the trim pieces.
- Installed LI brain under ashtray (just barely enough cable from the right rear head...)
- Connected a 5 second delay timer to the battery and ground (Will be triggered by the cigar lighter)

I mounted the rear heads with some 3M tape from Autozone - dunno if it is the correct famous VHB, but it is extremely sticky. I leveled them by doubling up the tape on the front of the head. They seem to stay fairly level. Unfortunately, they are angled out a degree or two each, but perhaps this will compensate for how close together they are. The corner of the right head shows in the rear camera when reversing, but it's just a slight spot in the corner of the picture. I removed the rear trim and ran the wires through the license plate light bracket and out through one of the existing grommets for the lid electronics.

My car has a retractable cable that runs everything in the lid, but unfortunately it is a fragile flat wire instead of regular wires in a bundle. Flat wires are too easy to break, and I think I might have. My trunk opener doesn't work anymore and the electric closing latch also does not work. :( However, at least the lights are still OK. I ran the LI wires parallel to the flat cable and just zip tied them together - the flat cable still retracts, and the LI wires just bend into a loop when the door is closed.

I hope to get a 4-position modular crimper soon so I can properly shorten my STiR+ wiring. These 4P4C connectors are a pain! I hope Belscort uses 6P4C connectors in the future, even if it means the brain has to be slightly larger because of the bigger connectors. 4P4C is a very uncommon size for a crimper, and most only have 6 and 8 position crimp dies.
 

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rjk

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I forgot to add the last interior pic since I finished the install. The first slot is a factory blank that I turned into a power switch that operates the jammers and the STiR+. In the same blank slot is the USB port that goes to the USB-Serial converter and connects to the LI setup. Above that slot is the dedicated LI power switch. The next slot over is the USB port for STiR+ updates. In front of the gear selector is the STiR+ controls, and as shown earlier in the thread the display is built into the mirror.

The only other non-factory item that is visible is on the left side of the steering column - it's a switch that puts the LIs in parking-sensor mode. Sorry no pic of it.
 

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Kimberdan

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HAHA Love them, I cant have them down here in FL, I would be giving all the old people heart attacks!!!! It would be sad, but Deff Funny to watch them S**T there pants!!!
 

rjk

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For my air setup, I'm going with a 4 gallon pancake tank in place of my spare tire, a Puma 12v air compressor, a 1/4" solenoid for remote controlled water drain, a 1/2" solenoid for normal usage (idiot prevention), and a Graham White manual valve for demonstrations. I'm going to have to fabricate a few things because there's no way this manifold setup will fit up front as-is, so I will have to run separate hoses to each horn and use a remote manifold. I'm going to see if I can mount them vertically facing down behind the aluminum crash bar inside the bumper.

For demos, I'm wiring up a dual battery kit with a rear-mounted battery so I don't have to have the car running while the compressor is airing up. To charge the battery and allow for emergency dead-battery starting, I will be installing a Merlin SmartBank Advanced setup with 2/0 wire. Future plans also call for a quick-connect jumper cable setup in the trunk, to make helping other folks out easier. I might also switch some of my accessories to run off the rear battery, using a Blue Sea fuse block. Each end of the 2/0 will get a 250 amp fuse which should allow for starting even with a dead main battery.
 

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